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About

The thing people ask me most is when to visit Moscow, and honestly my answer changes with my mood — but usually I say come for the shift between seasons, when the city can't decide what it wants to be. I keep track of everything from the first frost markets to the summer nights when nobody wants to go home, and I'll tell you which festivals are worth your evening and which are just crowds and overpriced mulled wine. Ask me in December and I'll send you to Gorky Park when it turns into an ice rink under the lights — it's a cliché, I know, but it's the good kind.